In the winter of 2023, Louis Vuitton presented one of the largest collaborations with Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. The fashion house presented not only clothes and accessories, but also art spaces in its boutiques, performances and installations based on the artist’s works, both in the real world and in the digital environment. This connection evoked both admiration for the thoughtfulness of the collection and its presentation, and condemnation.
Now Yayoi Kusama is 93 years old. She lives in a psychiatric hospital due to mental disorders. As a result, the collaboration, which includes a large body of work, has raised concerns about the artist’s health. Critics have accused Louis Vuitton of exploiting Yayoi’s work and misrepresenting her image. “The brand team has dedicated a separate paragraph on the website to the artist’s creative journey, but there is not a single mention of the specifics of Kusama’s mental health,” says Polina Vasilyeva, who was responsible for collaborating with artists at SimpleWine, Bosco di Ciliegi, House of Cultures. The artistic value of the objects that resulted from the collaboration is also questionable. There is a certain philosophy behind Yayoi Kusama’s patterns and installations. All of her works are autobiographical. The most famous pea pattern, its endless repetition in objects, helped Kusama cope with hallucinations and anxiety. However, Louis Vuitton focused less on depicting the artist’s creative journey and her struggle with mental disorders, and more on recognizable visual images.
There are some who support this collaboration and Louis Vuitton’s approach. The fashion house has gone to great lengths to promote the collection. The facades of boutiques around the world were covered with Yayoi’s signature patterns. Their stores became veritable installations. And they even put the figure of the artist herself in the foreground. With Louis Vuitton-level marketing, you can reach a large audience and increase people’s interest in Yayoi’s work and art. “With my last project [with Louis Vuitton], I received a lot of response from people all over the world. With this project, I also want to share my artistic philosophy and thoughts with everyone,” says Yayoi Kusama herself in an interview for Tatler Asia. This confirms the effectiveness and success of the collaboration.
This kind of collaboration with brands is very popular among artists. Not only do they spread a personal philosophy through their work, but the artists also increase their visibility. Fashion houses try to create a buzz in the media, attract influencers and present new collections as artworks. PR is very important for artists. It helps find new clients, connect with galleries and find new fans for their work. It also allows creatives to realize ideas that would not be possible without financial support and a platform for the brand. “For me, it’s an opportunity to bring complex ideas to life in ephemeral materials that are part of my practice. For example, sculptural elements of soap and gold leaf, wax and acrylic stone, brass and grease. Such projects allow me to reach a larger scale and develop a new performance technique. I see them as a resource for experimentation and creative growth,” says artist Anya Mokhova, who has already collaborated with Shiseido and Studio Playtronica.
The question of whether or not such collaborations between brands and artists can be called art is not easily resolved. If the creator remains true to his principles and considers his work as art, it is difficult to deny the existence of an artistic value in his work. “Artists have always collaborated with brands, from Salvador Dali, who invented the lollipop shape, to other well-known artists, who are no worse and no better. It’s everyone’s personal choice. There are no contradictions in our concept, in our vision of our creativity and the objects we make,” explains the creative association Recycle Group.
