Currently, all fashionable houses, fashion publishers, and media figures mark the first Monday in May on their calendars. This is one of the main days of the year for the fashion industry – the Met Gala. How has this significant event changed over its 75 years of existence?
Eleanor Lambert
The story of Met Gala began with Eleanor Lambert. She worked in advertising in the art and fashion industry, managing campaigns for Jackson Pollock1 and many other artists. She also headed the PR department of the Whitney Museum of American Art and in 1948, organized the first fashion week in New York City. It was also around this time that the Costume Institute opened at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in the US. It needed funding, and Eleanor, who supervised the project, decided to hold a social ball. This helped to both raise awareness and funds.
Admission to the event was open to anyone, with tickets available for $50, which included the rental of a garment from the Costume Institute archive. It is worth noting that the Met Gala is not just a party within museum walls. Guests were effectively financing art by purchasing tickets. Although the museum’s exhibition did not dictate the dress code back then, as the event itself was not held at the Metropolitan, but at the Waldorf Astoria hotel or Rainbow Room restaurant. The theme of the ball was also not specified, so guests wore cocktail dresses and black tie. Even the first Monday in May was not yet a significant date – Met Gala was first held in December, and the date of the event was not fixed.
Diana Vreeland
If Eleanor was the founder of the classical Met Gala, then Diana Vreeland brought the ball closer to what we know today. Diana worked at Harper’s Bazaar for 25 years before becoming the chief editor of Vogue US, from which she was fired in 1972. In the same year, at the age of 69, she became a consultant to the Costume Institute. This department of the Metropolitan Museum was one of the most unpopular. The annual ball was not enough to attract public attention and increase the number of visitors. Diana’s invitation to this position was supposed to improve the situation: she was considered not only one of the most stylish women in America but also a bold innovator in the fashion industry.
Expectations were met. Already in 1974, Diana organized the exhibition “The World of Balenciaga” and made it the theme of the Met Gala. If previously the dress code of the event was just ceremonial, now guests had to prepare and choose an outfit that corresponded to the spirit and style of the Balenciaga fashion house. This ball is considered a turning point in the modern history of the Met Gala.
Diana handpicked her guests for the Met Gala. Actresses Berintia and Marisa Berenson, singer Cher, and Countess Jacqueline de Ribes were not random visitors, as the event required distinguished names to elevate the status of the now main fashion event in the fashion industry. Loyalty to ordinary visitors had to be sacrificed, as the lavish dinner was eliminated and the creativity of Cristobal Balenciaga was not easily understood by all. Therefore, the number of visitors decreased, but not for long.
The Met Gala began to set the tone and define fashion trends. In 1976, the theme was “Diaghilev: Costumes and Set Designs of the Ballets,” where Yves Saint Laurent presented his new “Russian Collection,” and guests, including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, appeared in sumptuous fur coats, marking the return of the a-la russe style. By the way, it is believed that Jacqueline was the one who nominated Diana Vreeland as a consultant to the Costume Institute.
Pat Buckley
Pat Buckley, wife of American writer Christopher Buckley, had been assisting Diana in organizing the ball since 1979. Her phone book included Nancy Reagan, actress and first lady of the United States, and Betsy Bloomingdale, a socialite, who were, of course, invited to the Met Gala. This made the event more prestigious and increased museum revenues.
When Diana stepped away from the Costume Institute in 1985, philanthropist and socialite Nan Kempner joined the organizing committee (although she asked to be called simply a homemaker). Diana Vreeland said of her, “In America, there are no chic women. The only exception is Nan Kempner.”
By this time, tickets were already selling for $1000, and among the guests were not only socialites, but also representatives of fashion houses such as Burberry, Chanel, and Versace. The Costume Institute ball thrived and became increasingly lavish, but it was still difficult to compare it to the Met Gala that Anna Wintour would recreate.
Anna Wintour
By 1995, when Anna began organizing the Met Gala, she had been the editor-in-chief of Vogue for eight years. Her arrival marked a new era for the Costume Institute ball, and her influence was literally reflected in the Institute, which since 2014 carries her name.
If Diana Vreeland simply invited famous people to the event, Anna herself made up the guest list and seated them at the tables. The ticket price rose to $30,000 and continues to grow.
New traditions emerged, such as a designer walking the red carpet with the model he dressed. In 2006, it was Alexander McQueen and Sarah Jessica Parker, and in 2009, Marc Jacobs and Kate Moss. The event now includes many more Hollywood stars, supermodels, and singers.
Everyone who is interested in fashion keeps an eye on the Met Gala. This is where the trajectories of trends are determined, and where it is decided which fashion house and celebrity will become trendsetters. By 2023, this was well noticed. K-pop performers, for example, are becoming increasingly popular not only in Asia, but also in America and Europe, so inviting some of them to the ball became very symbolic. This undoubtedly raised their popularity even higher, and we can expect them to become ambassadors for even more fashion houses. This year, Blackpink’s Jennie Kim, who collaborates with Chanel, attended the ball. There are also brands that did not dress anyone at the ball this year. Saint Laurent and Alaïa, for example, skipped the Met Gala because their founders were at odds with Karl Lagerfeld, in whose honor the ball was held.
Preparation for the Met Gala takes eight months, so we will know the theme of the next ball well before the first Monday in May 2024.
