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The first Monday in May
From the ball for everyone to the Oscars in the world of fashion in 75 years

Reading time 10 minutes

Currently, all fashionable houses, fashion publishers, and media figures mark the first Monday in May on their calendars. This is one of the main days of the year for the fashion industry – the Met Gala. How has this significant event changed over its 75 years of existence?

Eleanor Lambert

Элеанор Ламберт, основательница бала Met Gala — Eleanor Lambert, người sáng lập Met Gala

The story of Met Gala began with Eleanor Lambert. She worked in advertising in the art and fashion industry, managing campaigns for Jackson Pollock¹ and many other artists. She also headed the PR department of the Whitney Museum of American Art and in 1948, organized the first fashion week in New York City. It was also around this time that the Costume Institute opened at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in the US. It needed funding, and Eleanor, who supervised the project, decided to hold a social ball. This helped to both raise awareness and funds.

Admission to the event was open to anyone, with tickets available for $50, which included the rental of a garment from the Costume Institute archive. It is worth noting that the Met Gala is not just a party within museum walls. Guests were effectively financing art by purchasing tickets. Although the museum’s exhibition did not dictate the dress code back then, as the event itself was not held at the Metropolitan, but at the Waldorf Astoria hotel or Rainbow Room restaurant. The theme of the ball was also not specified, so guests wore cocktail dresses and black tie. Even the first Monday in May was not yet a significant date – Met Gala was first held in December, and the date of the event was not fixed.

Diana Vreeland

Диана Вриланд, изменившая репутацию Met Gala в мире моды — Diana Vreeland, who changed the Met Gala’s reputation in the fashion world

If Eleanor was the founder of the classical Met Gala, then Diana Vreeland brought the ball closer to what we know today. Diana worked at Harper’s Bazaar for 25 years before becoming the chief editor of Vogue US, from which she was fired in 1972. In the same year, at the age of 69, she became a consultant to the Costume Institute. This department of the Metropolitan Museum was one of the most unpopular. The annual ball was not enough to attract public attention and increase the number of visitors. Diana’s invitation to this position was supposed to improve the situation: she was considered not only one of the most stylish women in America but also a bold innovator in the fashion industry.

Expectations were met. Already in 1974, Diana organized the exhibition “The World of Balenciaga” and made it the theme of the Met Gala. If previously the dress code of the event was just ceremonial, now guests had to prepare and choose an outfit that corresponded to the spirit and style of the Balenciaga fashion house. This ball is considered a turning point in the modern history of the Met Gala.

Певица Шер на своем дебютном Met Gala в 1974 году — Singer Cher at her Met Gala debut in 1974

Diana handpicked her guests for the Met Gala. Actresses Berintia and Marisa Berenson, singer Cher, and Countess Jacqueline de Ribes were not random visitors, as the event required distinguished names to elevate the status of the now main fashion event in the fashion industry. Loyalty to ordinary visitors had to be sacrificed, as the lavish dinner was eliminated and the creativity of Cristobal Balenciaga was not easily understood by all. Therefore, the number of visitors decreased, but not for long.

The Met Gala began to set the tone and define fashion trends. In 1976, the theme was “Diaghilev: Costumes and Set Designs of the Ballets,” where Yves Saint Laurent presented his new “Russian Collection,” and guests, including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, appeared in sumptuous fur coats, marking the return of the a-la russe style. By the way, it is believed that Jacqueline was the one who nominated Diana Vreeland as a consultant to the Costume Institute.

Pat Buckley

Pat Buckley, wife of American writer Christopher Buckley, had been assisting Diana in organizing the ball since 1979. Her phone book included Nancy Reagan, actress and first lady of the United States, and Betsy Bloomingdale, a socialite, who were, of course, invited to the Met Gala. This made the event more prestigious and increased museum revenues.

When Diana stepped away from the Costume Institute in 1985, philanthropist and socialite Nan Kempner joined the organizing committee (although she asked to be called simply a homemaker). Diana Vreeland said of her, “In America, there are no chic women. The only exception is Nan Kempner.”

By this time, tickets were already selling for $1000, and among the guests were not only socialites, but also representatives of fashion houses such as Burberry, Chanel, and Versace. The Costume Institute ball thrived and became increasingly lavish, but it was still difficult to compare it to the Met Gala that Anna Wintour would recreate.

Anna Wintour

Анна Винтур на своем первом Met Gala в 1995 году — Anna Wintour at her first Met Gala in 1995

By 1995, when Anna began organizing the Met Gala, she had been the editor-in-chief of Vogue for eight years. Her arrival marked a new era for the Costume Institute ball, and her influence was literally reflected in the Institute, which since 2014 carries her name.

If Diana Vreeland simply invited famous people to the event, Anna herself made up the guest list and seated them at the tables. The ticket price rose to $30,000 and continues to grow.

Дизайнер Александр Макуин с актрисой Сарой Джессикой Паркер на Met Gala 2006 года — Designer Alexander Makvin with actress Sarah Jessica Parker at the 2006 Met Gala

New traditions emerged, such as a designer walking the red carpet with the model he dressed. In 2006, it was Alexander McQueen and Sarah Jessica Parker, and in 2009, Marc Jacobs and Kate Moss. The event now includes many more Hollywood stars, supermodels, and singers.

Дженни Ким на Met Gala в 2023 году — Jennie Kim at the Met Gala in 2023

Everyone who is interested in fashion keeps an eye on the Met Gala. This is where the trajectories of trends are determined, and where it is decided which fashion house and celebrity will become trendsetters. By 2023, this was well noticed. K-pop performers, for example, are becoming increasingly popular not only in Asia, but also in America and Europe, so inviting some of them to the ball became very symbolic. This undoubtedly raised their popularity even higher, and we can expect them to become ambassadors for even more fashion houses. This year, Blackpink’s Jennie Kim, who collaborates with Chanel, attended the ball. There are also brands that did not dress anyone at the ball this year. Saint Laurent and Alaïa, for example, skipped the Met Gala because their founders were at odds with Karl Lagerfeld, in whose honor the ball was held.

Preparation for the Met Gala takes eight months, so we will know the theme of the next ball well before the first Monday in May 2024.

Ксения Смильгина

For those who are tired of staying at home
What to watch when unable to travel, but still crave the sense of adventure

Reading time 6 minutes

Going on a trip is never a bad idea. However, what can one do if stuck at work instead of walking along the streets of Paris at night or drinking cocktails on a Turkish beach? We present a compilation of 5 films that allow you to go on a small journey without leaving your home.

“Eat Pray Love” (2010), directed by Ryan Murphy

Кадр из фильма «Ешь, молись, люби» — Shot from the film “Eat, Pray, Love”

It is a famous adaptation of the memoirs of American writer Elizabeth Gilbert. The main character of the film, a middle-aged woman named Elizabeth, realizes one day that she is not living the life she dreamed of. She files for divorce after eight years of marriage and embarks on a journey in search of the meaning of life, visiting three destinations: Italy, India and Bali. In each of these countries, Elizabeth meets new people, tests her physical and spiritual abilities, and, of course, enjoys delicious food. The film offers a palette of completely different landscapes from distant corners of the planet, and Julia Roberts in the lead role becomes the best guide to cinematic tourist routes.

“Vicky Cristina Barcelona” (2008), directed by Woody Allen

Кадр из фильма «Вики Кристина Барселона» — Shot from the film “Vicky Cristina Barcelona”

It tells the story of two American women, Vicky and Cristina, who decide to spend their summer holidays in Barcelona. The trip becomes even more interesting, and the city attracts the girls even more, when they meet a local artist, Antonio. Best friends are drawn into a love triangle when both start receiving attention from Antonio. The situation becomes even more complicated when the artist’s ex-wife unexpectedly appears. The summer romance becomes more serious and complicated, but does not lose its attractive summer mood. And beautiful views of Barcelona and walks of the heroes along recognizable famous places of the city only add attraction to the short but bright love story.

“Midnight in Paris” (2001), dir. Woody Allen

Кадр из фильма «Полночь в Париже» — Shot from the film “Midnight in Paris”

It is another ode to love for Europe from Woody Allen. This time the story tells of the screenwriter Gil Pender, who flies to Paris with his fiancee to visit her parents. By coincidence, at one point Gil finds himself completely alone on the night streets of Paris. However, his solitude does not last long – a stranger in an antique car suspiciously reminiscent of F.S. Fitzgerald invites the hero to take a ride with him. The trip ends with Gil magically transported to the 1920s. Now every night he runs off to wander the night streets of Paris in the company of outstanding people of the past century. Paris in this film is represented in all its beauty – from cafes in the Art Deco style of the 1920s to the Champs-Élysées and the modern illumination of the Eiffel Tower.

“Lost in Translation” (2003), dir. Sofia Coppola

Кадр из фильма «Трудности перевода» — Frame from the film “Lost in Translation”

A film for those who are no longer surprised by European holidays. Famous actor Bob Harris and recent college graduate Charlotte – Americans who find themselves in the heart of Japan, in Tokyo. They meet in the hotel bar when both of them are unbearably lonely in the noisy metropolis. Charlotte is upset that she rarely sees her photographer husband, who is constantly disappearing on shoots, and Bob is going through a midlife crisis, disappointed in his marriage and career. Two lost people in a short time become each other’s main support and shoulder to cry on. This is a story not about love, but about a very touching and fleeting friendship surrounded by Japanese skyscrapers.

“The Secret Life of Walter Mitty” (2013), dir. Ben Stiller

Кадр из фильма «Невероятная жизнь Уолтера Митти» — Shot from the film “The Secret Life of Walter Mitty”

Walter Mitty is an ordinary office worker holding an ordinary position in the “Life” magazine’s illustration department. He spices up his routine life with adventures that he ventures into in his head, existing between the mundane reality and the fantastic fictional events. However, a series of unexpected events force Walter to step out of his comfort zone and go in search of a photographer, who requires a unique picture for the magazine cover. The Himalayas, Greenland, Iceland – all these places are in the itinerary of the newly-minted traveler.

Ирина Белоусенко

Beloved Game of the 80s
On the Inventor of Tetris and the Distributor Wars

Reading time 6 minutes

In the 1980s, the arcade game industry flourished in the United States. It was a standard cultural practice to visit gaming arcades where children and adults spent their leisure time. The influx of visitors increased even further after the introduction of a simple yet engaging game called “Tetris.” Nowadays, hardly anyone is unfamiliar with Tetris as it has been reissued several times, and almost everyone has manipulated the colorful blocks on their screens at least once in their lives. However, only a few know the man who gifted this game to the world and the battles different media magnates fought for it.

Алексей Пажитнов, создатель «Тетриса» — Alexey Pajitnov, creator of Tetris

Contrary to popular belief, Tetris was not invented in the US or even in Europe. The creator of Tetris is Alexey Pajitnov, a Soviet programmer who worked at the Computing Center of the Soviet Academy of Sciences. The idea for Tetris arose in Alexey’s mind in 1984 when he was introduced to the puzzle game of American mathematician Solomon Golomb, “Pentomino”. The essence of Pentomino was to assemble one large figure from several small ones. Inspired by Golomb’s concept, Alexey decided to create something similar but tweak the concept slightly. In his game, the figures had to be assembled in a hypothetical “cup” with the possibility of collapsing into straight rows. The user had the ability to rotate falling elements at their discretion. Soviet computers, however, lacked the computing power to process figures made up of five cubes, as in Golomb’s puzzle. Thus, the number of composite parts in one figure was reduced to four, and thus, Tetris acquired its name (from the Greek “tetra” – four).

Tetris quickly spread in Moscow and beyond the Soviet Union thanks to pirate copies. Around this time, Robert Stein, a Hungarian software importer, learned about the game. During Stein’s trip to Moscow, in an attempt to obtain the exclusive right to the game, Alexey unexpectedly gave Tetris as a gift to the entrepreneur. Stein, in turn, construed the gesture as an unconditional transfer of ownership of the game and permission to dispose of the invention of the Soviet programmer at his discretion.

From that moment on, a war for the right to publish Tetris and earn money with it started among big game distributors. “The Tetris War” involved large companies such as Mirrosoft and Spectrum Holobyte, to which Asian segment manufacturers Atari Games and Nintendo later joined. They all tried to obtain the rights to the game first from Stein and then, after learning that the Hungarian entrepreneur was not the actual owner of Tetris, went to negotiate in Moscow. Interestingly, representatives of different companies even flew to the capital at approximately the same time, so in the hallways of ELOKA, where Alexey Pajitnov went to work, they were guided into different rooms so that competitors would not bump into each other.

The offer from Hank Rogers, who came to Moscow as a representative of Nintendo, interested Pajitnov the most. In the end, on March 21, 1989, all rights to the Tetris version for game consoles were transferred to the Japanese company.

Алексей Пажитнов (слева) и Хэнк Роджерс (справа) — Alexey Pajitnov (left) and Hank Rogers (right)

The history of the battle between the business giants of the gaming industry for Tetris is actually much more extensive and can take up some time. To be precise, it takes one hour and fifty-eight minutes to watch the film “Tetris” by John Baird, which became available on the network on March 31, 2023. The film details the competition between companies and the risks that Alexey Pajitnov encountered while attempting to make the game accessible to users worldwide. It is worth mentioning that the role of the inventor was played by Russian theatre and film actor Nikita Yefremov, despite the fact that the film was produced by studios from the United Kingdom and the United States. The film can be watched online on the Apple TV+ platform.

Никита Ефремов в роли Алексея Пажитнова на кадре из фильма «Тетрис», 2023 — Nikita Efremov as Alexei Pajitnov in a still from the film Tetris, 2023

Ирина Белоусенко

Private Flights for our Smaller Brethren
As flying with pets becomes increasingly difficult, pet owners turn to private aviation

Reading time 5 minutes

On April 29, twenty passengers boarded a Gulfstream G4 plane flying from Teterboro airport in New Jersey to Farnborough airport, southwest of London – nine dogs, one sphynx cat, and ten humans. This was the first K9 Jets flight of a private jet charter company based in Birmingham, England, founded in response to the growing desire of pet owners to travel with their pets in a comfortable and safe atmosphere.

People wishing to transport their pets on commercial flights must comply with numerous rules that vary depending on the airline. Service animals, which are not considered pets, are allowed in the cabin, but other restrictions apply, such as size limitations – larger pets must be transported as cargo. However, many owners of large dogs fear that during transport in the cargo hold, their pets may be subjected to temperature fluctuations, poor ventilation, and improper handling. Some airlines even refuse to transport large dog breeds.

Ник и Мишель Кутсофтас садятся на рейс K9 Jets вместе с Альбертом, их 2-летним родезийским риджбеком. Источник: The New York Times — Nick and Michelle Koutsoftas board a K9 Jets flight with Albert, their 2-year-old Rhodesian Ridgeback. Source: The New York Times

If the animal is within a certain size range, it must be transported in a carrier – in 2020, the Federal Aviation Administration approved new rules that prohibit pets from being held on laps or leashes during flights, and they must be in an appropriately sized crate. These carriers must fit under the seat in front of the passenger, which may cause some discomfort for those seated in front of or next to them.

According to the US Department of Transportation, in the last decade over 200 domestic pets have died during flights, with the majority being dogs. The department recommended that owners of short-nosed dogs such as pugs and bulldogs consider the risks of transporting them as cargo, citing much higher mortality rates than for other breeds. According to the American College of Veterinary Surgeons, short-nosed dogs have more difficulty breathing than other breeds. These dogs experience breathing problems due to their short snouts and their respiratory conditions worsen during flights at high altitudes in cargo holds, where the temperature can be very high or too low.

Private carriers step in

Боуи, сфинкс, был единственным котом на рейсе K9 Jets. Источник: The New York Times — Bowie the Sphynx was the only cat on the K9 Jets flight. Source: The New York Times

Meanwhile, private air carriers have stepped in to offer comfortable and safe options for transporting pets. Some, such as NetJets and VistaJet, have special programs for domestic animals. On VistaJet flights, pets are fed select meat cuts, offered various toys, and provided with a sleeping area on a soft carpet. Once a person buys a seat, there is no need to pay additional costs for transporting a pet or to purchase an additional seat. Several companies even help customers navigate the restrictions imposed on keeping animals in a particular country and gather all the necessary documents for entry, which is another advantage for their owners.

Initially, K9 Jets offers flights between New York and Paris, Lisbon, and London. Tickets for eight out of seventeen listed flights from May to the end of September have already been sold out. In the fall, the company may expand the service to additional cities, including Dubai. One-way tickets between New York and Europe cost about $9,000 per seat. Domestic animals cannot fly without human accompaniment.

Александра Захарова

БЖУР214

Daddy’s girl
A Collection of Films About Fathers and Daughters

Reading time 6 minutes

World cinema is full of films about complicated relationships between parents and their children. However, for some reason, it is much easier to find a film about a mother with a daughter or a father with a son than to see the interaction between a parent and a child of the opposite sex. This is especially true for girls, who are given much less attention in cinema than the difficult lives of boys.

That’s why we present to you a selection of 5 films about the struggles and joys of relationships between fathers and daughters.

“Sunshine of Mine” (2022), directed by Charlotte Wells.

Кадр из фильма «Солнце моё» — Shot from the film “Sunshine of Mine”

The film that ranked first in Sight and Sound’s list of best films of the year. This partly autobiographical film tells the story of Sophie, an 11-year-old Scottish girl who spends her summer vacation in Turkey with her father. Sophie’s parents have divorced, so for the little girl, this trip becomes one of the few opportunities to find out what her father is living for and what he is thinking about. The complexity of the trip is compounded by the fact that Sophie is in prepubescence, and her father is going through a midlife crisis. Now these two close but distant people have to learn to coexist together, discovering new facets of their relationship.

“The Father” (2020), directed by Florian Zeller

Кадр из фильма «Отец» — Shot from the film “The Father”

Anthony is an elderly man suffering from dementia. His difficult personality makes it difficult for him to get along with his caretakers, so his daughter Anne takes on most of the responsibility for caring for him. Anthony’s illness provokes countless arguments, but Anne stays by his side despite all the pain his words cause her. Essentially, this film is a psychological thriller that doesn’t rely on plot alone. The conclusion may surprise you, but not as much as the interaction between Olivia Colman and Anthony Hopkins, who portrayed the complexity of the father-daughter relationship in an impossible situation. By the way, at the 2021 Oscars, Anthony Hopkins was awarded Best Actor specifically for his work on this film.

“Ice 2” (2020), directed by Jora Kryzhovnikov.

Кадр из фильма «Лёд 2» — Shot from the film “Ice 2”

A sequel to the successful 2018 film “Ice.” Figure skater Nadya and hockey player Sasha, the main characters of the film, have finally married and are planning to have a child. However, the birth is difficult, and as a result, Nadya dies. The film tells the story of how Sasha learns to be a father and cope with all the difficulties of parenthood on his own. And when his daughter grows up, he also tries to figure out where the line between caring and overprotection lies and how not to let his fears harm his little daughter.

“The Whale” (2022), directed by Darren Aronofsky

Кадр из фильма «Кит» — Shot from the film “The Whale”

Charlie lives with extreme obesity, which developed as a result of compulsive eating due to the loss of his loved one. He walks with difficulty and lectures his literature students with the camera turned off because he is ashamed of his appearance. However, his regular and gloomy routine changes when his teenage daughter decides to contact him. Ellie is upset with her father because he once chose a new relationship over his family, but nonetheless begins secretly visiting him. Now Ellie and Charlie are practically starting from scratch and trying to build a relationship burdened with one’s sense of guilt and the other’s childhood resentments.

“Gifted” (2017), directed by Marc Webb.

Кадр из фильма «Одарённая» — Shot from the film “Gifted”

The film is about the fact that sometimes the role of “Dad” can be played by a non-biological father. Frank takes guardianship of Mary, his deceased sister’s little daughter. At some point, the girl starts showing outstanding abilities in mathematics. A real struggle begins for Mary because part of the family believes that it is now necessary to focus on educating the little genius. However, Frank wants Mary to grow up as a “normal” child, surrounded by friends, rather than just books. The desire to give the girl a peaceful childhood, along with his own fears, forces Frank and Mary’s small family to open up to each other from a completely new perspective.

Ирина Белоусенко

“The Challenge” of the Global Film Industry
How the First Film in Space was Made

Reading time 5 minutes

On April 20, 2023, Russian screens premiered the film “The Challenge” by director Klim Shipenko. The story of talented surgeon Evgeniya Belyaeva could have been just another film about the selfless work of doctors, if not for one crucial detail. Part of the movie was shot aboard the International Space Station (ISS), where the director and lead actress spent 12 days filming.

Клим Шипенко, режиссёр фильма «Вызов» — Klim Shipenko, director of the film “Challenge”

For Klim Shipenko, “The Challenge” was a continuation of his love for space-themed films after the successful release of “Salyut-7” in 2017. According to the director, it was precisely his reluctance to say goodbye to space that led him to contemplate a new project, this time without the green screen and with actual footage from a real space station. So, when the production company Yellow, Black & White, and First Channel’s CEO, Konstantin Ernst, approached him with an offer to take on a space project, Shipenko agreed without hesitation.

Only two additional people could be sent to the ISS for filming, the director and the lead actress. More than 3,000 applications were submitted for the lead female role, from which only about 20 were selected. Actress Yulia Peresild, who eventually starred as the main protagonist, initially did not participate in the casting as she was busy with another project. However, all the selected actresses failed the required medical examination, and after prolonged tests and exams, Peresild landed the role of a space surgeon.

Фото со съёмочной площадки «Вызова», 2023 — Photo from the set of “The Challenge”, 2023

Preparations for the shoot took several months on Earth. During this time, the director and lead actress were trained at the space center, studying equipment, taking exams on the ISS structure, and rehearsing the necessary actions that could be useful during launch, docking, and return to Earth. Klim Shipenko had to lose more than 15 kilograms to meet the necessary medical requirements. On the ISS, he acted as the film and art director, cameraman, and makeup artist. On October 5, a film crew of two and a backup crew of two professional astronauts were sent into space.

Юлия Пересильд на кадре, снятом на борту МКС — Yulia Peresild in a frame taken aboard the ISS

To organize a full-fledged shooting process, special film equipment was delivered to the ISS. In addition to cameras, sound recording and lighting equipment, some non-obvious items were also brought, such as a rugby helmet. As Yulia Peresild later recalled, Klim Shipenko needed a helmet, as he frequently flew backward in weightlessness. Without such improvised protection, his “chance of cutting off his head in the first 10 seconds of flight dramatically increased.” During their stay at the ISS, Peresild and Shipenko shot about 78 hours of footage, some of which made it into the film’s final cut. Filming took place both on the space station and during the crew’s launch and descent. According to the director, approximately 60% of the footage was improvised, as even with minute-by-minute planning for filming days on Earth, it was impossible to anticipate the impact of weightlessness and adaptation to the ISS. To avoid losing footage and to present the unique shots on the big screen, a communication channel was established with Earth, where all recordings were sent daily to the Space Center.

From March 31, the First Channel aired a series called “The Challenge: Firsts in Space” – a nine-part documentary project which detailed the making of the film. All episodes are available online on the First Channel’s website.

Ирина Белоусенко

Everything Everywhere All at Once
What made the film an Oscar favorite in 2023?

Reading time 10 minutes

Everything Everywhere All at Once – an American science fiction action comedy that will be released in the summer of 2022. The film is about a Chinese-American immigrant named Evelyn who discovers that she can connect with versions of herself from parallel worlds. With the help of this new ability, Evelyn must now prevent the destruction of the multiverse.

The Daniels directorial duo: Daniel Scheinert (right) and Daniel Kwan (left)

The film, directed by the “Daniels” duo, paid off several times at the box office, grossing over $130 million on a budget of about $20 million. The love of the audience and the positive reviews of film critics eventually contributed to the fact that “Everything Everywhere All at Once” was shortlisted as a nominee for the Academy Award. As a result, out of 11 nominations, the film won 7 at once and received the golden statuettes in the categories of “Best Film”, “Best Director”, “Best Actress”, “Best Supporting Actor”, “Best Supporting Actress”, “Best Original Screenplay” and “Best Editing”.

Let us find out together what made “Everything Everywhere All at Once” a box office hit and an Oscar 2023 record holder.

1. Best actress: a triumph of inclusion

Shot from the film "Everything is everywhere and at once." Michelle Yeoh as Evelyn Wong — Shot from the film “Everything is everywhere and at once.” Michelle Yeoh as Evelyn Wong

Michelle Yeoh, who plays the title role in Anywhere, is a Malaysian actress of Chinese descent who has been active in both Asian and Western cinema. Michelle became world famous for the project Crazy Rich Asians, a film adaptation of the novel of the same name, in which the actress played the smart and charismatic mother of the protagonist. In the film “Everywhere and at once” Michelle showed the full range of her acting abilities, as the plot is set in parallel universes. From world to world she slipped into the most diverse roles – from a contract killer to a cook or a lesbian with sausages instead of fingers.

One version of Evelyn Wong in a parallel universe

Critics note that besides the factor of Michelle’s acting talent, her origin allowed her to win. After all, Michelle Yeoh became the first woman of Asian descent to be awarded the title of “Best Actress”. In response to the criticism it had been receiving, the Academy strategically chose to award a statuette to a member of a national minority in order to maintain the film award’s rating. However, it is difficult to name such a factor as an unambiguous reason for presenting the Michelle Yeoh award. After all, the actress could really surprise the audience with acting, showing the full range of her skills on the screen.

2. Best Supporting Actor: The triumphant return of Jonathan Ké Kwan

Jonathan Ke Kwan in "Everything Everywhere" 2022 (left) and in "Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom" 1984 (right) — Jonathan Ke Kwan in “Everything Everywhere” 2022 (left) and in “Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom” 1984 (right)

Jonathan Ké Kwan rose to prominence in the film industry as a child as Harrison Ford’s boy assistant in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom in 1984. However, like many successful child actors, his career declined with age. Jonathan continued to work in film production, but as an assistant action choreographer and assistant director. The last film in which he took part as an actor before filming in “Everything Everywhere All at Once” was The Second Attempt, a 2002 fantasy drama that failed at the box office.

After the release of Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, film critics predicted a glorious future for the little charismatic boy, and some fans of the franchise called him their favorite character. That is why the return of Ké Kwan to the big screens after 20 years has become a long-awaited and joyful event for many viewers. For the first time after a long break, Jonathan not only played an interesting and diverse role but also immediately received an Oscar for it. Given that the actor’s awards culminated in a touching hug with Harrison Ford, this story seems like a good plot for a movie.

3. Best Supporting Actress: Jamie Lee Curtis as Tax Clerk

The image of Jamie Lee Curtis in the movie "Everything is everywhere and at once" — Jamie Lee Curtis in the movie “Everything Everywhere All at Once”

Awarding Jamie Lee Curtis at the Oscars came as a surprise for many film critics. In one category, actresses such as Angela Bassett (“Black Panther: Wakanda Forever”) competed with her, Kerry Condon (“The Banshees of Inisherin”), Hong Chau (“The Whale”) and Stephanie Xu, her colleague in the film “Everything Everywhere All at Once”, which played the role of the daughter of the main character.

After the ceremony, a flurry of criticism fell upon the film academy, as many predicted the victory of African-American actress Angela Bassett for the role of the Queen of Wakanda. In the film, she played a strong woman who, even after losing her son, could support her country and her people in difficult times.

The victory of Lee Curtis is justified by two factors at once.

People overlooked Jamie Lee Curtis in previous award seasons. Jamie Lee Curtis began actively acting in films back in the 1970s and was a favorite of viewers and critics, but she wasn’t even nominated for an Oscar. So, Jamie Lee Curtis could receive an award for “Everything Everywhere All at Once” based on merit in the US cinema, as a tribute to her experience and talent, which had gone unnoticed for so long.

Secondly, the image of Jamie Lee Curtis in the film is really very different from the more familiar roles of the actress. We are talking about both the appearance and the scale of the role. At 64, the actress herself performed her own stunts in action scenes and, like Michelle Yeoh, skillfully changed images during the jumps between parallel universes during the film’s plot. However, it would be incorrect to deny the ambiguity of the film academy’s decision. Many viewers and critics have the impression that it gave the award to the actress “for long service”, which does not correspond to the principle of the award. After all, there are special nominations in the film academy right for such cases.

4. “Best Editing”: an undisputed technical victory

Shot from the film "Everything is everywhere and at once" — Кадр из фильма «Всё везде и сразу»

One of the main storylines of the film is the constant movement of characters between parallel universes. Each of these universes is special, with its own color and lighting solutions and scenery. The combination of these different universes and the creation of a coherent story from the most dissimilar expositions is the merit of skillful editing. The film is called “a triumph of surrealism and abstraction”: graphic inserts and sharp jumps create the illusion of immersion in a near-comic story, and the constantly changing visual range does not let you get bored behind static scenes. Editing enhances the impact of the story on the audience, as the effects inside the film no longer work at the expense of camera work or playwrights. Intra-frame movement, breaking the boundaries of the screen – all this made the installation of “Everything Everywhere All at Once” bright and memorable.

All the above together allowed the film to pick up the last three nominations – “Best Film”, “Best Director” and “Best Original Screenplay”. “Everything Everywhere All at Once” became an example of a commercially successful picture that conquered the film academy. An absolute win for a film of this nature clearly broadens the horizon of opportunity for future Oscar-winning filmmakers. And also, it clearly points to the shift towards new bold cinema that is happening in the film academy and generally in the world.

Ирина Белоусенко

Dee Dee Blanchard and Munchausen Syndrome by Proxy
How a mental disorder destroyed the life of an entire family

Reading time 6 minutes

In June 2015, 48-year-old Claudine “Dee Dee” Blanchard was found dead in her bed. A day later, police found her daughter: the girl had been hiding in the apartment of her boyfriend, Nicholas Godejohn, who had killed Dee Dee and stabbed her seventeen times. After a year-long investigation, the court sentenced Gypsy Rose Blanchard to ten years in prison and her boyfriend to life in prison.

For twenty-four years, Claudine physically and emotionally oppressed her daughter, forcing her to pretend she was sick. Although the woman was never accurately diagnosed during her lifetime, forensic psychologists believe Blanchard suffered from a condition known as Munchausen syndrome by proxy (MSP). Munchausen syndrome is a psychological disorder in which the caregiver, in most cases the mother, intentionally induces symptoms of various illnesses in the child in order to meet the child’s psychological needs.

Munchausen syndrome is a rare but severe form of child maltreatment that often goes undiagnosed. To identify the condition, clinicians must thoroughly investigate the client’s background in case there is a discrepancy between the parents’ statements and previous medical reports. One of the most important ways to confirm suspected MSP is to separate the caregiver and child to see how the patient’s health changes. Diagnosing MSP is extremely difficult because sufferers often appear to be mentally healthy, while their children may show symptoms of real illnesses, making it difficult for doctors to distinguish between true physiological disorders and those caused by a parent.

Dee Dee Blanchard is a prime example of a person with Munchausen syndrome by proxy. She used basic medical knowledge from her work as a nurse’s aide to confirm Gypsy’s long list of illnesses. Blanchard was able to convince doctors that her daughter was paralyzed from the waist down, even though the girl could walk independently and did not need a wheelchair. Depending on which doctor she spoke to, Dee Dee changed her family story. To one cardiologist, for example, she pretended that many members of her family had died of heart attacks. As a result, doctors and nurses became unwitting accomplices in a fraudulent scheme, prescribing unnecessary surgeries and medications for the girl.

Gypsy Blanchard in a wheelchair. Photo from Disneyland

Munchausen syndrome most often develops in people who were neglected or abused by their parents in childhood, says Mark D. Feldman, MD and an honorary member of the American Psychiatric Association. After studying the Blanchard family’s case in depth, Dr. Feldman concluded that the cause of Dee Dee’s mental disorder was her strained relationship with her own mother, who had humiliated her daughter all her life. As a result, Claudine satisfied her need for attention by creating conditions in which Gypsy could not even physically get along without her.

Mugshots of Gypsy Blanchard and her boyfriend Nicholas Godejohn

Like other people with MSP, Dee Dee satisfied her psychological needs not only at the expense of her child, but also at the expense of those around her. She gained public recognition for devoting all her time to caring for her “sick” daughter. People donated money to help the family: in 2009, the girl received the “Child of the Year” award and $5,000 for her resilience from the Olya Foundation, a nonprofit dietitian community and advocacy group.

So it went for more than twenty years until 2015, when Gypsy plotted murder to get rid of her mother’s overprotectiveness and run off with her boyfriend. “The control was total, just as sometimes control over a kidnapped victim is total. Claudine’s daughter was indeed a hostage, and I think we can understand the crime that happened afterwards from the perspective of a hostage trying to escape,” Dr. Mark Feldman said.

Александра Захарова

БЖУР214

Symbiosis or parasitism
Collaborations of fashion houses with artists - art or marketing?

Reading time 6 minutes

In the winter of 2023, Louis Vuitton presented one of the largest collaborations with Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. The fashion house presented not only clothes and accessories, but also art spaces in its boutiques, performances and installations based on the artist’s works, both in the real world and in the digital environment. This connection evoked both admiration for the thoughtfulness of the collection and its presentation, and condemnation.

Yayoi Kusama for Louis Vuitton collaboration

Now Yayoi Kusama is 93 years old. She lives in a psychiatric hospital due to mental disorders. As a result, the collaboration, which includes a large body of work, has raised concerns about the artist’s health. Critics have accused Louis Vuitton of exploiting Yayoi’s work and misrepresenting her image. “The brand team has dedicated a separate paragraph on the website to the artist’s creative journey, but there is not a single mention of the specifics of Kusama’s mental health,” says Polina Vasilyeva, who was responsible for collaborating with artists at SimpleWine, Bosco di Ciliegi, House of Cultures. The artistic value of the objects that resulted from the collaboration is also questionable. There is a certain philosophy behind Yayoi Kusama’s patterns and installations. All of her works are autobiographical. The most famous pea pattern, its endless repetition in objects, helped Kusama cope with hallucinations and anxiety. However, Louis Vuitton focused less on depicting the artist’s creative journey and her struggle with mental disorders, and more on recognizable visual images.

Installation at the Louis Vuitton boutique in the Champs Elysees, France

There are some who support this collaboration and Louis Vuitton’s approach. The fashion house has gone to great lengths to promote the collection. The facades of boutiques around the world were covered with Yayoi’s signature patterns. Their stores became veritable installations. And they even put the figure of the artist herself in the foreground. With Louis Vuitton-level marketing, you can reach a large audience and increase people’s interest in Yayoi’s work and art. “With my last project [with Louis Vuitton], I received a lot of response from people all over the world. With this project, I also want to share my artistic philosophy and thoughts with everyone,” says Yayoi Kusama herself in an interview for Tatler Asia. This confirms the effectiveness and success of the collaboration.

This kind of collaboration with brands is very popular among artists. Not only do they spread a personal philosophy through their work, but the artists also increase their visibility. Fashion houses try to create a buzz in the media, attract influencers and present new collections as artworks. PR is very important for artists. It helps find new clients, connect with galleries and find new fans for their work. It also allows creatives to realize ideas that would not be possible without financial support and a platform for the brand. “For me, it’s an opportunity to bring complex ideas to life in ephemeral materials that are part of my practice. For example, sculptural elements of soap and gold leaf, wax and acrylic stone, brass and grease. Such projects allow me to reach a larger scale and develop a new performance technique. I see them as a resource for experimentation and creative growth,” says artist Anya Mokhova, who has already collaborated with Shiseido and Studio Playtronica.

Collaboration bag Dior and Recycle Group

The question of whether or not such collaborations between brands and artists can be called art is not easily resolved. If the creator remains true to his principles and considers his work as art, it is difficult to deny the existence of an artistic value in his work. “Artists have always collaborated with brands, from Salvador Dali, who invented the lollipop shape, to other well-known artists, who are no worse and no better. It’s everyone’s personal choice. There are no contradictions in our concept, in our vision of our creativity and the objects we make,” explains the creative association Recycle Group.

Ксения Смильгина

Once upon a time in Japan, there was a Sada Abe
About the geisha who killed her lover and became a celebrity

Reading time 7 minutes

In 1905, the seventh child was born into the family of Shigeyoshi and Katsu Abe – a girl named Sada. As the youngest daughter, Sada was surrounded by attention and care from her parents, who indulged her every whim. The girl learned to play the shamisen² in order to be like her idols – charming geishas.

The main commandment of a geisha is to endlessly please a man without losing dignity.

However, when Sada was 15 years old, she was raped at a friend’s house. It turned her whole life upside down. Sada turned into an uncontrollable teenager: she did not obey her parents, skipped school and had many sexual relationships. As punishment, the girl was sent to the Yokohama geisha school in 1922. At that time, many Japanese families did this to cleanse themselves of shame and try to guide their daughters on the right path.

Images from the film "Empire of the Senses", based on the biography of Sada Abe — Images from the film “Empire of the Senses”, based on the biography of Sada Abe

At the geisha school girls are taught from early childhood, so 15-year-old Sada could no longer become a real geisha. Instead, she worked as a matigeisha, that is, a pseudo-geisha who provided sexual services. She was engaged in this activity for five years until she fell ill with syphilis. Then Sada became a licensed prostitute.

Sada Abe made several attempts to escape from the brothel where she was

Until 1934, the girl worked in several brothels until she was arrested for lack of a license. Sada lost her when she stole money from a client. In prison, she met a friend of the brothel owner, Kinnosuke Kasahara, who helped to free her. Kinnosuke took a liking to Sada, and they became lovers. Sada moved to a house bought by Kasahara and lived on the money he gave her. However, the man did not want to leave his family and marry Abe. Soon the lovers parted. Sada recalled:

“He didn’t love me and treated me like an animal. He was one of those scum who, after parting, begged me to return.”

After breaking up with Kasahara, Sada moved to Nagoya, where she met Professor Goro Omiya. A romance began between them, and on the advice of her lover, Sada got a job as a waitress at the Yoshida-ya restaurant in order to gain experience and open her own business in the future. The Yoshida-ya restaurant was owned by Kichizo Ishida. Passion broke out between the worker and the boss. The lovers spent whole days together.

“It is even difficult to explain what was so attractive in Isis. But it was absolutely impossible to say anything bad about him, about how he looked, what kind of lover he was, how he expressed his feelings. I have never met such a sexy man before,” Sada said.

However, like Kasahara, Ishide did not want to part with his wife and children. Sade had to break up with her beloved, and she fell into a deep depression. At this time, Abe attended one performance in which a geisha threatened her lover with a knife. Sada remembered this episode and performed this trick at the next meeting with Ishida. Kitizo liked it. During the next dates, Sada even strangled Kitizo, as it turned him on.

On May 18, 1936, Sada strangled Kitizo and lay next to his corpse for several hours. She then cut off his genitals, wrapped them in newspaper, and fled.

“I couldn’t take his body or head with me. I wanted to take a piece of his body that aroused the most vivid memories,” Sada will later tell the police.

The windows of the hotel where the murder took place

On May 19, 1936, Sada was arrested by the police, and on November 20 of the same year, the court sentenced her to 6 years in prison. In November 1940, she was released early due to a general amnesty. Sada changed her name, and nothing is known about her further fate. Based on police interrogations and inquiries, they wrote a book that became a bestseller. The story of Sada Abe became a popular subject for books, plays, and films over the following decades and even to this day. In 1946, women in Japan gained the right to vote. The new climate in the country turned Sada into a victim of male exploitation. The fury of the woman and her cruelty were regarded as an attempt to resist the harsh totalitarian regime.

Сона Галстян